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The black sheep of fine dining – Bambuddha Ibiza

The black sheep of fine dining – Bambuddha Ibiza

Words Tina Browning

Founded by John Moon in 1999 and now guided by his son Jonjon’s quiet precision, this revered temple of temptation remains one of the most iconic dining destinations in Ibiza.

There’s a moment that stops people in their tracks when arriving at Bambuddha Ibiza for the very first time. It’s a breathtaking, somewhat visceral reaction to stepping into an exotic new world, akin to being transported to places like Ubud, Goa or perhaps Koh Lanta – most definitely not what one expects to find in this hidden pocket of the Santa Gertrudis countryside. The now-iconic restaurant and cocktail lounge, shrouded by an evergreen bamboo forest that sways in the Balearic breeze, is comprised of a cluster of striking, Balinese pagoda-style dining spaces (called banjaks – meeting places), flanked by a row of towering, ancient stone totem poles – the perfect place for balmy summer nights, esoteric adventures and of course, gastronomic worship at the highest altar.

Stepping into something otherworldly was always the intention of adventurer and entrepreneur John Moon when he first opened the doors to Bambuddha Grove (as it was originally named) in 1999. Infused with the essence of a lifetime of travel and escapades – and kitted out with thoughtfully collected decoration, art and objets to match – from South Africa to Southeast Asia and back again, the restaurant was, as John Moon once wrote: ‘a unique personal manifestation of my life’. The pioneering (and famously trademarked) culinary concept was MediterrAsian fine dining, taking its inspiration from the world’s ancient spice routes while amalgamating ingredients and techniques from the Mediterranean and the Orient. There was nothing else like it in Ibiza, and to this day, it remains completely unique.

John Moon has often described Bambuddha as ‘the black sheep of restaurants’. It’s a space that has defied trends and organically grown, evolved and transformed with each new season and even decade, along with every new generation of guests and island residents – many of whom could be considered black sheep themselves. This concept of welcoming all outsiders, in opposition to the negative social connotations associated with the term ‘black sheep’, is at the heart of Bambuddha’s inclusive philosophy: nomads, bohemians, mavericks, loners, seekers, outsiders, revolutionaries, path-breakers and conscious objectors all are welcome to dine at her tables. John Moon conceived the Black Sheep Tribe during his travels between Goa, India and Ibiza from 1978 and 1968, giving a name to his collective of like-minded travellers, alongside iconoclasts including Buddha, Gandhi, John Lennon, Martin Luther King, Brian Wilson, Marilyn Monroe, Allan Ginsburg and a list that goes on. You can read all about it in his manifesto, the Black Sheep Tribe Bible, here.

From day one, Bambuddha was designed to be a space that wasn’t just about food; fusing spirituality and sensuality with the flavours of the world, it is as wild as it is unique. Eschewing the traditional starter-main-dessert-format of formal fine dining, each dish is swiftly brought to the table as soon as it’s ready, Asian-style, for optimal enjoyment. Many plates are designed to be shared among friends, families and lovers – a tactile and playful experience that brings groups closer together, with each heavenly bite creating a deliciously new talking point.

Beyond the unorthodox style of dining, there’s so much more than meets the eye to Bambuddha – symbology and meaning is found every which way you look. The restaurant’s instantly recognisable logo depicts three ‘pirate buddhas’: a female, a transsexual and a male who, according to John Moon, show the diversity of human sexuality and represent tolerance, freedom and respect. Each buddha is a different colour, an homage to ‘God’s multitude of races and spiritual beliefs’, and they sit together at a bar – a visual rumination on the possibilities of where life could lead while individuals strive to reach peace and love – silently meditating on what John Moon dubbed ‘the White Light of Consciousness’: that is, the buddha that each of us once was when we were born and could be again.

Another important part of the Bambuddha story is family and John Moon had always dreamed of passing his cherished temple onto his son Jonjon Moon – who had worked at the restaurant since he was a teenager – when the time was right. In 2018, Jonjon, who holds a business degree from Oxford University, stepped into the role of ‘carer and guardian of the Bambuddha Grove Temple and her philosophy’, as John Moon wrote in the Black Sheep Tribe Bible. ‘I will remain present as ‘Chief’, ‘Spiritual Guide’ and an ‘Elder of the Black Sheep Tribe’, trusting my son to consult with me whenever the need may arise on his journey,’ his wise words continue.

The new custodian of Bambuddha sees his role as bringing a sustainable thread to the restaurant’s more hedonistic past. “My dad spent half of his life creating Bambuddha and making it beautiful,” Jonjon explains. “I’ve turned it into somewhere that retained all of the beauty, but continues to grow and endure.” The two men are both stubborn, Jonjon admits, and there have been periods of friction between them while the torch was passed from father to son, but there is no question that the legacy they have created is all the richer for it.

It was Jonjon who implemented the sharing-style menu at Bambuddha, partly inspired by an increase in culinary competition on the island but with a practical consideration too. “I noticed there was always a bottleneck between starters and mains,” he says. “That was limiting our covers, so we met with the chef and immediately came up with the sharing concept.” The results were instant – a tapas-inspired way of eating, where food became a social event, the chance to try something new or share a few of your staunch favourites with the rest of the table. “It really suited our cuisine,” says Jonjon. “Now, you can explore the whole menu – it’s a revelation for some people.”

The Bambuddha menu can easily accommodate a table of eight, each with radically different palates. There is the luminously light for the raw-food devotee; precise, silky sushi for the purist; richly spiced curries – from Indonesian to Malaysian and Thai – for those who want a little heat and for plant-based diners, the choice is delightfully vast. Steaming bao buns, bite-sized dim sum, sticky gyoza, delicate carpaccios, refreshing salads – the culinary journey, just like John Moon’s famous world travels, is seemingly never-ending. The shared table is also, in its own way, an expression of the restaurant’s founding philosophy: bringing people together, opening them up to new experiences and dissolving the distance between them.

In a full circle moment in 2019, Jonjon revived Bambuddha Ibiza’s once-famous, all-you-can-eat winter buffet, but one pandemic later, the concept became simply impossible (at that time, it was even illegal). Quick thinking, Jonjon came up with the idea of Miso Hungry. “I thought: why don’t we bring the buffet to the people?” he explains. What began as a crisis solution became one of the restaurant’s most popular concepts – a curated menu of beloved Bambuddha dishes that delivers all the variety of a buffet but is made to order all night long (on Wednesdays on each cusp of the summer season) and served directly to the table. “The food is never sitting around,” Jonjon continues. “It’s all freshly made, and guests get to spend more time with their group.”

Almost three decades in, Bambuddha sits in a very different landscape than the one that gave it life. Jonjon’s philosophy for the future is both simple and ambitious. “Our goal is to be better than yesterday, but not better than tomorrow,” he says. Looking at every season as a new stage in the restaurant’s evolution, the team use the experiences of the previous year – along with inspirations taken from their flavour-scouting global travels in winter – to improve and enhance the next. For a restaurant built on the idea that the journey is everything, this seems exactly right.

‘It has been a tumultuous journey, from inception, as a spiritual social centre for friends, to a Temple Restaurant,’ concludes John Moon in the Black Sheep Tribe Bible. ‘We have enjoyed and tolerated Bambuddha through her growing pains, tantrums and chaos, disorderly conduct, infancy and terrible twos, preschool years, junior high school, teens and middle age. She has survived each test thrown at her, overcoming all obstacles. She is now grown up and is blossoming into her most beautiful, mature form, her heart open to harmonious evolution.’ One thing however, has never, and will never change: Bambuddha remains a spiritual home on the island for all the black sheep of the world who flock here.